So this is part one of who knows.. Sorry if I block up your dashes :*
So I know I haven’t been on in about 2 months now, but! Fear not, it’s only due to a lack of time and a really shitty computer.. Thankfully I have a job now, so I am saving up! More soon, miss you all!
If you liked this tutorial, pleas check out my Facebook page for more of my work!
Larger Size avaliable on my Deviantart
Just an addition: If you don’t have any beeswax around, a dryer sheet does the same job of stopping your thread from tangling so much! :) I have one stashed in my sewing box, you can use it over and over again!
This is a comic about my own emotions, made to release my own emotions, and to cope with my own emotions.
Can we just take a moment to appreciate this. And how JUST because someone has friends, or a boyfriend or ANYTHING.. it doesn’t fucking mean they should be happy. I’ve had so many people tell me to be happy because I have nothing to be depressed about. It’s the most stupid thing I’ve heard in my life.This is so great. Anons do this so much.
This is literally so fucking relevant to me it HURTS.
so so sorry for all the cosplay stuff, i just wanna do some sort of really good halloween costume this year ^-^ i’ll post progress pics when i finally get started :)
Hey guys! So you all apparently really appreciated that first masterlist, and since then I have gotten oodles of asks and also stock piled a lot more tutorials. So here’s to round 2. You can find the first post here.
Bun Tutorial - x
Fitting Long Hair Into Wigs - x
How to Make a…
HOW TO DO PERFECT TROLL HORNS
Play with the Model Magic until it’s a little warm and 100% soft, then shape your horn. Once you have the shape, gently run your finger over bumps and cracks to even them out until you have the desired appearance. Some cracks are unpreventable at this stage, while others can be fixed. Additional cracks will likely form while the modeling clay is drying. If you’re too concerned that you won’t be able to fix certain imperfections, even after the horn is dry, remake it while the clay is still soft enough. If you’re pleased with the outcome, leave any remaining cracks to fix once the horn is dry.
After one to four weeks [depending on the mass of your horns], they will be close to completely dry with a slightly soft core. You can sand them, as long as the outside is hard enough and the inside isn’t too soft. After sanding them, dust them off. Fill in the cracks with superglue, gently run your finger over the puddle of glue you just created until the bulge is flat, and then let it dry. Repeat the glueing and sanding process if necessary.
Use an opaque Gesso to coat the bare horn when it’s dry and ready to paint. The layer of opaque Gesso will serve as a second skin overtop your horn, doing well to hide the remaining evidence of cracks or imperfections.
Once you’ve done a couple layers of opaque Gesso, you can sand them with fine sandpaper, dust them off, and paint the stripes on. Finally, coat the horn with transparent Gesso. Let it dry, then add an additional layer to insure the entire horn is covered.
Then you have a fantastic looking horn!!!
The way I do it is pretty tedious and requires attention to detail in addition to a hint of perfectionism, but if you’re willing to have damn good horns, it’s worth the extra effort.