If you liked this tutorial, pleas check out my Facebook page for more of my work!
Larger Size avaliable on my Deviantart
Just an addition: If you don’t have any beeswax around, a dryer sheet does the same job of stopping your thread from tangling so much! :) I have one stashed in my sewing box, you can use it over and over again!
This is a comic about my own emotions, made to release my own emotions, and to cope with my own emotions.
Can we just take a moment to appreciate this. And how JUST because someone has friends, or a boyfriend or ANYTHING.. it doesn’t fucking mean they should be happy. I’ve had so many people tell me to be happy because I have nothing to be depressed about. It’s the most stupid thing I’ve heard in my life.This is so great. Anons do this so much.
This is literally so fucking relevant to me it HURTS.
so so sorry for all the cosplay stuff, i just wanna do some sort of really good halloween costume this year ^-^ i’ll post progress pics when i finally get started :)
Hey guys! So you all apparently really appreciated that first masterlist, and since then I have gotten oodles of asks and also stock piled a lot more tutorials. So here’s to round 2. You can find the first post here.
Bun Tutorial - x
Fitting Long Hair Into Wigs - x
How to Make a…
HOW TO DO PERFECT TROLL HORNS
Play with the Model Magic until it’s a little warm and 100% soft, then shape your horn. Once you have the shape, gently run your finger over bumps and cracks to even them out until you have the desired appearance. Some cracks are unpreventable at this stage, while others can be fixed. Additional cracks will likely form while the modeling clay is drying. If you’re too concerned that you won’t be able to fix certain imperfections, even after the horn is dry, remake it while the clay is still soft enough. If you’re pleased with the outcome, leave any remaining cracks to fix once the horn is dry.
After one to four weeks [depending on the mass of your horns], they will be close to completely dry with a slightly soft core. You can sand them, as long as the outside is hard enough and the inside isn’t too soft. After sanding them, dust them off. Fill in the cracks with superglue, gently run your finger over the puddle of glue you just created until the bulge is flat, and then let it dry. Repeat the glueing and sanding process if necessary.
Use an opaque Gesso to coat the bare horn when it’s dry and ready to paint. The layer of opaque Gesso will serve as a second skin overtop your horn, doing well to hide the remaining evidence of cracks or imperfections.
Once you’ve done a couple layers of opaque Gesso, you can sand them with fine sandpaper, dust them off, and paint the stripes on. Finally, coat the horn with transparent Gesso. Let it dry, then add an additional layer to insure the entire horn is covered.
Then you have a fantastic looking horn!!!
The way I do it is pretty tedious and requires attention to detail in addition to a hint of perfectionism, but if you’re willing to have damn good horns, it’s worth the extra effort.
My trident is made out of wood! The two heads are each a single piece cut from 3/4” MDF (medium density fiberboard) and then sanded until the tines were smother, rounder and more finished looking. I then cut out mounting holes at the bases of the heads to secure the handle (which is a wooden rod of some kind (maybe pine) that we had laying around from a previous project). It’s important, when making joins like that, to give plenty of surface area for any glue to hold as well as distributing the weight at more than the joint, so I also mounted in some cut down threaded rod about 2-3 inches deep into both the rod and the heads. The joins were kind of a little messy at the end, which left me either with the option of using a body filler like bondo to smooth it out or cover it up — the jewels are some decorative buttons from a local craftstore, with the button parts cut off and glued over the head/handle joins.
I thiiiink I did a base layer of brown rustoleum covered by a couple varieties of metallic, but there’s so much spraypaint around I can’t confirm which colors exactly were used.
PROS: sturdy (it’s wood!), fairly lightweight, sturdy, sized to how I wanted instead of buying a premade trident, STURDY
CONS: all one piece with no real way to disassemble without adding an unattractive joint in the middle, so it’s kind of a local-con-only prop.
Oh my goodness yeah I can imagine why you would be panicking at this point!
For the mask -
I drew out a basic mask shape with paper and made sure it fit to my face. In order to get in symmetrical I folded the paper in quarters and drew it out first the bottom half of one side, then matched the upper half of that one side by holding it against a window and tracing it, and then tracing the entire half onto the other half of the paper.
This was the resulting pattern -
I traced this pattern onto some upholstery vinyl and cut it out as smoothly as I could. That’s the base of the mask.
Next I pinned the vinyl onto some bright blue performance knit and just sort of loosely cut around the shape of the mask, leaving about 1/2” to spare. I did the same with the eye holes.
Please excuse my awful mouse drawing.
With some plain tacky glue, I put a few dots of glue on the right side of the vinyl and glued the performance fabric to the vinyl. This isn’t permanent, it’s just to hold it in place while sewing.
Then very slowly and carefully, folding and stretching to make sure it didn’t bubble or fold weirdly on the other side, I hand-sewed the edge of the performance fabric to the inside of the vinyl, making sure to not go all the way through the vinyl to the other side.
Then I just made two long ‘tails’ of the same performance fabric and inserted the sides of the mask inside of the wide, open ends of tails, folding over the edge slightly and using a ladder stitch to invisibly sew it to each side of the mask.
To get rid of the dry glue I just sort of rubbed the surface of it until it came undone.
For the tunic lacing -
I just made really long tubes of the performance fabric with my serger and spent like seven forevers turning them right side in. If you do not have a serger you’ll want to make the seams very very thin so that they don’t bunch up inside the tube and make it even harder to turn right side in.
Then I just laced them up through buttonholes on either side of the tunic.
This is essentially how they’re laced. The pink and blue indicates what is inside the tunic, the orange and green is the outside.
I used tiny safety pins to keep the ends from slipping out of the holes.
Hopefully that helps!
How to make a dragon tail
*click to zoom in* O_O
- Start with a pool tube and make this kind of cut: http://fc04.deviantart.net/fs31/f/2008/229/f/0/Dragon_Tail_WIP_by_Wolfbird.jpg
- Start Gluing the bot part (jus cut long rectangles and glue on top of another).
- After cutting a LOT of scales start gluing them . In my case I started from bot to top.
- To fill those triangles spaces just cut scales in a half and start gluing them in those spaces so it looks like the picture #5
- Test the tail.
- In my case since mine needs some kind of bumps like rocky look I used hot glue to make em.
- When you done and ready to paint it seal it with 2 layers of modge podge. ( I tested some color first).
- In the first pic appears all the paints I used and order. My base color its the black of the foam so I started with the dark red.
- Then Added bright red.
- Next highlight was orange.
- Last color applied was some metallic light gold on the corners and in some scales till the middle.
- For last detail I added just a lil bit of black in the rocky bumps.
I don’t force paint places that the sponge can’t reach because that’s what gives the effect of shadow with the base color in scale case. Like in the pic under the tutorial.
For Attachment I would recommend a belt.
Attack On Titan Cosplay Refs and Help!
Jackets: A short, light brown jacket with patches on the left breast/side of the chest, upper arms and a large one on the back. It has a high collar with lapels and two pockets. And a shoulder strap on each….shoulder.
Cloaks: Dark green, with the emblem on the back, a hood and a small gold button holding it together. While they are a green as far as I know in the manga and anime, you can buy them in black, purple, red, blue, etc. I will put those in the other section with the hoodies.
Patches: Mostly grey and white crest shaped patches. Four different designs and a few different sizes.
Tutorials: 1, 2
Harness: Hard to describe. It criss crosses across the legs and torso with some parts reinforced with grey leather? It’s mostly brown leather belts.
Apron: Piece of brown fabric wraped around the waist and upper thighs.
Shirt/Pants: Differs from character to character. But usually a pale colour. Pants are white/cream. No patterns needed. Just either look for those coloured pants/leggings/whatever or make them using existing pants as a base pattern.
Boots: Tall and brown. The front is taller than the back?
3D Maneuver Gear: I described this in title when i tried to post this the first time but I’m too lazy to do that now. But thats ok, I found someone who already did it.
The Three Dimensional Maneuver Gear (立体機動装置 Rittai kidō sōchi?), also called Vertical Maneuvering Equipment, is a set of gear developed by humans that allows great mobility when facing the Titans in combat. The gear allows the user to fight in a 3D space as opposed to a 2D one. The gear itself takes the form of a body harness that encompasses much of the body below the neck. Although the Gear can grant a skilled user tremendous mobility, it is a demanding art that requires strength, and skill, both of which must be honed through constant practice. Some tools involved in the apparatus include:
- Piston-shot grapple-hooks
- Gas powered mechanism
- Iron Wire Propeller with Plug in Blades
Other: Assorted coloured cloaks, hoodies, jackets and coats that appeared in other episodes or chapters and so on.